These are common practices that help to preserve the outdoor environment and experience of other users of these beautiful, wild areas.

Trash

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are in a pristine wilderness environment. This should go without saying, but pack everything out, and leave nothing behind. This includes food-related (rinds, peels, shells, etc), toilet paper, water bottles, and any kind of climber-specific trash (tape, rope whipping, etc). Please carry out a little trash you find left behind by others.

Protect natural features

Leave plants and trees intact, and don’t modify natural features (i.e. rocks or plants) for the convenience of climbing or hiking. Stay on established trails, and don’t cut switchbacks (this increases erosion damage). Keep packs away from critters by hanging them when you are away.

Human waste

Encountering human waste in the backcountry is terrible, and has increased dramatically as these areas have become more popular.

• Please try to use bathroom facilities whenever possible
• Consider carrying a Wag Bag or similar
• Bury human waste 6-8” deep in good, organic soil
• Carry out your toilet paper or any personal hygiene products- do NOT leave it behind, or attempt to burn it!

Respect other climber experiences

• Share routes whenever possible
• Avoid climbing in large groups
• Quiet is a value of wilderness- music systems should only be audible to you, and not other climbers/users.

Dogs

For the safety of the dogs, and enjoyment of other users of these climbing areas, it is probably best to leave your dog at home- there are real hazards to dogs in these areas (including rattlesnakes), and not everyone is as appreciative of your dog as you are. Further, leaving a dog at the base of a route while you climb is frightening for many dogs in these wild areas. If you must bring a dog with you, please consider these management strategies:

• Leashes at all times
• Keep them under control and away from other people and their stuff
• Don’t leave them tied up at the base of a multi-pitch climb
• Pack out dog waste!

Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks are legendary destinations in American rock climbing, known for their rich history of traditional climbing values and classic routes. If you’re new to climbing here, it’s important to understand and uphold the local climbing ethics that have shaped these crags for generations.

Tahquitz is widely regarded as the bastion of modern traditional American rock climbing. Iconic climbers such as Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard pioneered routes here. Climbers are encouraged to respect the original character of these classic routes and “leave no trace” of their passage from car to car.

Most routes at these crags were established in an era before modern bolting equipment. Routes that followed crack systems were climbed first, then over time climbers began exploring the various slabs, faces, pillars, and aretes that were devoid of cracks. The first ascensionists placed bolts on the lead, by hand, using a hand drill, often from a meager stance, and the placement of each one carried significant weight and intention.

Due to this traditional “ground up” ethic, even the face climbs maintain an adventurous feel, and very few bolted face climbs at Tahquitz or Suicide Rock are bolted tightly enough to be considered modern sport climbs. The addition of new bolts to an established route for convenience or to reduce the psychological challenge has never been accepted by any generation of climbers here, and for any proposal to add a bolt to an existing route, significant community discussion is recommended, to ensure consensus and respect for the original climb, in consultation with the first ascent party if available. This careful approach to bolting has preserved the bold style that characterizes face climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide. Climbers new to the area are encouraged to respect the established ethics, ensuring these iconic cliffs remain a testament to both tradition and responsible stewardship.

When bolts become rusty or unsafe, local climbers often coordinate careful replacement, aiming to maintain the original bolt positions, by removing the old bolt, then redrilling the hole to a larger diameter (typically from ¼-inch diameter or 3/8-inch diameter to ½-inch diameter), and replacing the old bolt with a new stainless-steel bolt and hanger. Bolt replacement should only be undertaken by qualified individuals experienced in bolt removal and replacement.

When you climb here you follow in the footsteps of those who came before you, a privilege born from stewardship and respect for tradition. By honoring local climbing ethics, minimizing impact, and fostering a respectful climbing community, climbers can ensure preservation of these iconic crags for future generations.