Scrambling (class 3) to the summit of Tahquitz Rock was a goal of intrepid mountain hikers in the early 1900’s, but it wasn’t until the formation of the Rock Climbing Section (RCS) of the Southern California Chapter of the Sierra Club in the 1930’s that climbers began to take a serious look at Tahquitz rock.

In summer 1935, RCS member Jim Smith attempted the first climb of Tahquitz’s West Face with companion Mary Jane Edwards, who lacked any climbing experience. Jim had no pitons, and they retreated after only one pitch, much to Mary Jane’s relief. But Jim saw the potential.

In the summer of 1936, Jim teamed up with Bob Briton and Zach Jasaitis for the first climb on Tahquitz- The Trough (5.4), followed closely by first ascents of Angel’s Fright (5.6) and the Fingertip Traverse (5.5) with various RCS members.

During the 1930s, fewer than twelve climbs were established at Tahquitz, mostly completed by members of the RCS. This group typically repeated existing routes, in the same way that skiers use established runs on a ski mountain.

But one notable first ascent from the 1930s was the renowned Mechanics Route (5.8), first led by Dick Jones in 1937. At the time, it was regarded as one of the most difficult and challenging leads in the country, due to the route’s second pitch—a runout face up steep, sloping potholes—which continues to test climbers today. Remarkably, Dick Jones completed the first ascent wearing tennis shoes, on belay with a manila yachting rope.

The 1940s can be categorized as the Chuck Wilts era, author of the area’s first comprehensive guidebook. His first ascents include what are now some of the rock’s most popular routes: Fingertrip (5.7, in 1946), Left Ski Track (5.6, in 1947), and the first free ascent of Piton Pooper (5.7+, in 1949).

The 1950s saw Royal Robbins set new standards in American climbing, starting with the first free ascent of The Open Book on Tahquitz Rock in 1952, widely regarded as the first major multipitch climb in America to receive the 5.9 rating, a benchmark standard by which all other 5.9 routes are still measured against today.

His collaborations with climbers like Chuck Wilts, Don Wilson, Jerry Gallwas, and Tom Frost produced many classic routes, using pitons for protection—routes that are very popular today, like Whodunit (5.9, 1957), The Swallow (5.10a, 1952), The Long Climb (5.8, 1952), The Step (5.10a, 1957), The Jam Crack (5.8, 1959), Upper Royals Arch (5.8, 1953), Illegitimate (5.9, 1959), and the first free ascents of Innominate (5.9, 1957) and Consolation (5.9, 1959).

In 1959, Royal and Dave Rearick accomplished the daring first ascent of The Vampire (5.9, A4) on Tahquitz. The aid climbing involved carefully placing pitons behind the route’s thin, expanding flakes- a technique that not only represented a significant advancement at the time but also foreshadowed developments in aid climbing later used in Yosemite.

In 1961, Royal, along with Tom Frost and Chuck Pratt, made the first ascent of El Capitan’s Salathe Wall, a climb widely acclaimed as one of the world’s greatest rock climbs. He later became one of Yosemte’s preeminent big wall climbers, and one the most talented free climbers of the 1960’s. His journey started at Tahquitz.

Yvon Chouinard discussed the impact Tahquitz had on climbing in Yosemite in his article, “Modern Yosemite Climbing,” published in the 1963 American Alpine Journal. Chouinard wrote:

“All the techniques for free climbing were established not at Yosemite, but at Tahquitz Rock in Southern California. From the 1930s to the present day, it has been a teaching ground for nearly every prominent Valley climber. This magnificent rock has over 70 routes on massive, exfoliated granite, similar to Yosemite except for the lack of glacial polish and dirt in the cracks. This means that a move will go free at Tahquitz where normally in Yosemite it would require direct aid. Because of its accessibility, compactness, and solid piton cracks, Tahquitz offers ideal conditions for pushing free climbing to its limits. Most of the routes were first done with direct aid, but over a period of time nearly every one has been done free. It was the first area to have class 5.9 climbs and continues to have the greatest concentration of 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10 routes in the country.

When one finds a layback or friction pitch at Tahquitz, it is a textbook-type pitch; a lay-back is a pure lay-back requiring pure lay-back technique, a friction pitch require pure friction technique. Nothing else will do. One can develop granite-climbing technique here far better than in Yosemite or anywhere else. I cannot impress it enough on climbers from other areas to climb Tahquitz before going to Yosemite. Every spring, even the native climbers spend a week at Tahquitz getting in shape for the Valley walls.”

During the 1960s, climbing standards increased significantly, largely because of the contributions made by Bob Kamps, who was considered one of the leading free climbers of his era.  Kamps was famous for his first ascent of the unclimbed Diamond (5.10) on Colorado’s Long Peak in 1960 with Dave Rearick.

In collaboration with climbers such as Rearick, Tom Frost, T.M. Herbert, and Tom Higgins, Kamps achieved several notable first ascents. These include The Rack (5.10a, 1961), Human Fright (5.10a, 1963), Blanketty Blank (5.10c, 1963), and Pearly Gate (5.10a, 1969), among others.

His dedication to free climbing led him to achieve first free ascents of previously aided climbs that became enduring Tahquitz classics: The Blank (5.10b, 1960), noted for its demanding technical face moves; and Whodunit (5.9, 1966), a celebrated multipitch route at Tahquitz renowned for its varied crack climbing.

At Tahquitz, perhaps Kamps’s greatest achievement was his benchmark 1967 first ascent of Chingadera (5.11a), one of the most difficult face climbs in America at the time.Kamps’s pioneering ascents not only set new standards for difficulty and style but also inspired future generations of climbers to push the limits of free climbing.

The 1950s and 1960s saw extensive exploration at Tahquitz, but Suicide Rock was mostly overlooked until the late 1960s. A group of climbers led by Pat Callis, including Charlie and Trish Raymond, Lee Harrell, and Larry Reynolds, established thirty new routes at Suicide between 1966 and 1969, including classics such as Surprise (5.8), Serpentine (5.9), and the ultra-classic Sundance (5.10b). They also aided routes such as The Pirate (A2), Etude (A2), Insomnia (A3), and Paisano Overhang (A3) using pitons, setting the stage for the next generation of climbers to attempt free climbing these spectacular climbs.

The decade of the 1970s was characterized by a new group of young, motivated climbers setting new standards of difficulty both in terms of new routes, and first free ascents of previously aided climbs.

Valhalla (5.11a), done in 1970 by locals Ivan Couch, Larry Reynolds, and Mike Dent, set a new standard of difficulty for Suicide Rock. In 1972, Jim Erickson, a talented climber visiting from Colorado upstaged the locals by claiming the prized first free ascent of the classic Insomnia Crack (5.11b).

In 1973, teenagers Mike Graham and Tobin Sorenson made the first ascent of New Generation (5.11c) on Suicide Rock’s Sunshine Face, then America’s most challenging technical route. This climb marked the rise of a new wave of 1970s climbers.

They called themselves the Stonemasters, and entry to the club was simple: You had to climb Valhalla (5.11a). Led by John Long, the group included Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson, John Bachar, Gib Lewis, Charles Cole, Robs Muir, Mike Lechlinski, Lynn Hill, Erik Erickson, and Bill Antel. The Stonemasters would go down in climbing lore as one of the most influential groups in American rock climbing culture, largely due to the short stories written by Long, documenting their achievements and zeitgeist.

John Long was the impetus behind many first free ascents at Tahquitz, including classics such as The Vampire (5.11a, 1973), The Flakes (5.11c, 1973), Le Toit (5.12a, 1973), Green Arch (5.11c, 1975), The Hangover (5.13a, 1978), and Stairway to Heaven (5.12b, 1984).

At Suicide Rock, Long spearheaded first free ascents of now revered classics: Iron Cross (5.11b, 1973), and Etude (5.11a, 1974). His 1973 first free ascent of Paisano Overhang (5.12c) was one of America’s first routes to be graded 5.12.

Chouinard’s prediction regarding Tahquitz serving as a training ground for Yosemite was affirmed in 1975 when Long, along with Jim Bridwell and Billy Westbay, accomplished the first one-day ascent of The Nose Route on El Capitan. Long also participated in the first free ascent of the East Face of Washington Column (renamed Astroman, 5.11d, 12 pitches) with John Bachar and Ron Kauk. Both climbs are considered landmark achievements in the history of American climbing.

In 1976, Tobin Sorenson completed the first ascent of The Edge (5.11b R) on Tahquitz, a striking arete visible from miles away. Legend has it that during the climb, Tobin wept after his drill bit broke as he attempted to drill a bolt 40 feet above his last bolt, but somehow, he managed to regain his composure, finish drilling, place the bolt, and complete the route. Falls of over 100 feet have been recorded on The Edge, making it one of the most renowned free climbs in the United States requiring psychological composure.

At Suicide Rock, a young John Bachar climbed Caliente (5.12c, 1978), featuring crimping up a steep headwall, setting the bar even higher for pure difficulty. Bachar would go on to become one of America’s most gifted free climbers of the 1980’s, known for his free solos of extremely difficult routes up to 5.12 in difficulty at Joshua Tree and Yosemite.

Also in 1978, at Suicide Rock, Tony Yaniro’s first free ascent of the ultrathin crack of The Pirate (5.12+), raised eyebrows, since he was just 16 years old at the time, belayed by his dad.

In 1984 John Long added a direct start and finish to The Edge, starting from the very base (Turbo Flange, 5.11c R), establishing one of the most impressive face climbs on Tahquitz, rarely climbed due to its bold runouts.

Darrell Hensel, together with Kevin Powell, maintained the traditional ground-up ethos of the Stonemasters throughout the 1980s and into the 1990s at Suicide Rock. Their efforts contributed to elevating climbing standards in the area through a commitment to technical excellence. Notably, Darrell and Kevin completed the first free ascent of the initial pitch of Hades (5.12a, 1980), recognized as one of the premier challenging slab pitches at Suicide Rock. Darrell further distinguished himself with the first free ascent of Ishi (5.12d, 1985), a significant milestone for the region, as well as establishing Someone You’re Not (5.13a, 1991).

In Chuck Wilt’s 1979 edition of his Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks guidebook, which details 197 routes, Chuck writes: “This may be the last edition of the Tahquitz and Suicide Guide. Even climbers of the present generation seem to agree that the basic purpose of the guide has been fulfilled and there is no real need to record more and more difficult variations of existing routes.”

Since 1979, however, more than 500 new routes have been climbed, by a talented group of climbers including Bob Gaines, Kelly Vaught, Frank Bentwood, Charles Cole, Troy Mayr, Clark Jacobs, Tom Gilge, Scott Erler, Dave Evans, Randy Vogel, Craig Fry, Rob Raker, Todd Gordon, Alan Bartlett, Tony Sartin, Tom Murphy, Erik Roed, John Weinberg, Matt Beebe, and others.

In the 1990’s, Kelly Vaught and Frank Bentwood began exploring beyond the cliffs of Tahquitz and Suicide, developing entire new areas (such as the Hinterland Wall) on separate cliffs in the Idyllwild area.

In recent years the myriads of cliffs on the mountainside east of Tahquitz Rock have been explored and developed by adventurous climbers unfazed by tedious one-to-two-hour approaches. These intrepid climbers include Joshua Reining, Chris Norwood, Howard Ballou, Eddie Woods, Nicolas Fitzpatrick, Jacob Bingham, Blake Hargis, Lou Cerutti, Jordan Cannon, Andrew Burch, Chris Hubbard, Brian Spiewak, Gary Anderson, and others, who’ve found many incredible pitches on the faces, cracks and aretes in this remote setting off the beaten path.

As climbers continue to explore and climb the crags of Idyllwild, knowing the history of who came before and their place in the evolution of climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks connects us to the traditions and achievements of the past. Chances are, if you’re on one of the area’s classic routes you’ll be following in the footsteps of one of the masters of our sport.