Local Route Beta

sunshineface topo gaines crop.webp — Topo courtesy Bob Gaines

The Idyllwild Climbers Alliance works to develop and maintain careful records of the status of the climbing areas, hardware conditions and route clarifications throughout the climbing areas in the San Jacinto Mountains. Here you will find updated beta on these conditions or route information, according to the area where they are located. These beta updates were created through the efforts of local ICA climbers, and reviewed by Bob Gaines for accuracy and approval (using topos from his various guidebooks as a starting template). These updates should be used as a supplement to your own guidebook or source, and are not intended to be comprehensive, and can contain errors– use at your own risk!

Your observations and thoughts are quite welcome, and we are happy to share whatever beta we have about the area beyond which you might find here.

Tahquitz Rock

The Vampire

In 2024, all of the lead and anchor bolts on the Vampire were replaced with updated anchor hardware. This classic route now has modern protection that will withstand generations of use.

Suicide Rock

Weeping Wall

An extensive review of the Weeping Wall was conducted over the 2025-26 winter, inspecting and documenting the status of the bolts there that require attention, and modifying the topo for this formation. Because route finding amongst the many bolts there can be confusing (esp. between Surprise, Duck Soup and Revelation), the hangers on Duck Soup were carefully painted black to differentiate that route from the others on either side. As a throwback to the original FA’ist installation, the hangers on Ten Karat Gold were carefully painted gold. Here is a revised topo of the Weeping Wall as of April 2026 (see your guidebook for route names and ratings):

Northeast Buttress

There are a few updates that are worthy of consideration related the Northeast Buttress of Suicide.

The route ‘Gone in 30 Seconds’ is on the far left end of this formation, and originally had a single Bugaboo knifeblade to protect the small roof move. On recent inspection, this pin was easily removed by hand- so it is no longer present on this route:

nebuttress gonein30seconds 001 crop.webp

nebuttress gonein30seconds 002 crop.webp

There is a Lost Arrow piton on the first pitch of ‘Flakes of Wrath’. It is quite old, so obviously should be considered questionable.
There is a modern two bolt anchor along ‘Flake Out’ that allows TR’ing of ‘Flakes of Rad’.
There is a Lost Arrow piton on the first pitch of ‘Spooky Spike Direct’. Likewise, it is quite old and should obviously be considered as questionable protection.

Sunkist Face

There is a modern, two bolt anchor/rap station at the top of ‘Burning Down the House’.
There is a route to the right of ‘Burning Down the House’ that shares this route’s first bolt, then continues slightly right and straight up to the BDTH anchor. It is said to be called ‘Psycho Killer’, though the FA and rating is unclear (it appears to be hard face climbing).